how to sand live edge wood

Finally I give the wax about 3 days to cure and buff one last time before putting the piece to use.Remember I said we would talk about the base of my table later? What type of product works best? A belt sander works as well. Since the slab arrived raw and splintery, it was necessary for her to sand down all sides. Then, wipe the surface with mineral spirits and wet-sand with 2000-grit sandpaper. As it gets used the sander softens up (like a mop head, get it?) On the one hand, slabs are just thicker pieces of wood and are finished using exactly the same techniques that woodworkers have been using forever. Once the bark is gone, take a rotary tool with a sanding flap wheel and sand the edges down smooth. Unlike sanding a flat surface, I follow the contours and try to preserve the natural shape of the edge while getting everything smooth. I also want to use the sanding live edge process to double check the bark and make sure it’s going to stay stuck. Even though live edge slabs lend your woodworking project a natural, rustic look, you still need to finish them. She finished off her creation with two coats of clear polyurethane sealer applied with a foam brush. Even though live edge slabs lend your woodworking project a natural, rustic look, you still need to finish them. How much to sand depends on the type of finish you plan to use on your projects. But what about those projects you plan to paint? We know ads can be annoying, but they’re what allow us to make all of wikiHow available for free. A WoodWorkers Guild of America (WWGOA) original video. Take your sander and begin working on the slab until reaching a smooth feel. Sanding live edge on a table can be a little tricky. I don't use so much dust that the epoxy turns muddy. While I have no problem doing all the buffing by hand, I'll break out my power buffer to both spread and buff the finish into the surface.With the wax applied, I'll either let it set for about 30 minutes or simply grab the buffer and work it into the wood. It’s made up of layers of abrasive, each layer going onto a mandrel at a slightly different angle than the previous layer. As with any sander, a variety of grits are available so you can take your sanding from coarse to fine with this tool.You may not find a mop sander at a big box store. Pouring takes some time and often requires more than one batch of epoxy. This goes for any sawn surface. Shaping and sanding the live edge is where most people get nervous. What to look for•Logs felled during spring and summer give up their bark easier once dry, and have more unusual coloring due to higher moisture content.•Search out logs with multiple knots, burls, limbs, and other unique characteristics.•To create even more character in your wood, allow the logs to lie on the ground or in a stack for a year or two uncovered. Easy to follow and understand." Please help us continue to provide you with our trusted how-to guides and videos for free by whitelisting wikiHow on your ad blocker. How would you sand between coats? Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.It is better to apply many thin coats of a finish rather than 1 thick coat.If you want to apply a finish to both sides of the wood, do the top and edges first, let everything cure, then do the bottom.You don't have to buy all of the tools required for this project. In addition to the live edge worked on here, it made short work of George, You forgot to mention what grit of mop you used. Cheers, TomDo you have any videos, or can you provide a video on applying a finish to a live edge that has bark? Some people want to keep the bark intact, but I have yet to come across a piece with bark fully intact so I opt to remove the bark entirely. While I don't want a sharp edge where the two surfaces meet, I do want there to be an edge to reflect light. Is spraying the only way to go? I follow this same process for both the Odie's Oil and Odie's Wood Butter. I actually used pieces from my planing sled as my straightedges for cutting the slab to final size. If working with Odie's oil I would recommend against the seal coat of shellac because the finish needs to be able to soak in.Many thanks, Andrew! I keep a heat gun or blow torch handy to cause the bubbles to expand and pop, leaving a nice smooth finish. Please explain to me how this is possible?Hi Bob. I'm currently trying a couple coats of dewaxed shellac before adding the oil, to see if that helps. My question is about sanding. I find this is best done by sanding the live edge before doing my final sanding to the top. I have a 2" thick old growth redwood slab with live edges that I want to turn into a table top. Then sand the sap wood (live edge) with a smaller headed sander to bring out the color and remove any bark or dirt. All of the Odie’s finishes come in glass jars for a reason. The epoxy creates a smooth surface without taking away the character of the piece. This will help make the entire surface even despite the epoxy that you applied. For my slab, I mixed some walnut sanding dust into the epoxy to add color. For me, I want to take any sharp edges off of the bark so it isn’t an uncomfortable piece of furniture to have around, but I don’t want to dramatically change its shape or contours.

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